Ingredients

• 28 to 30 ounces frozen french fries
• 3 tablespoons vegetable oil, divided
• 1 (1 1/2-to 2-pounds) tri-tip beef roast (also called triangular roast; about 2 inches thick), cut into 4 steaks
• 2 teaspoons cracked black peppercorns
• 1/4 cup dry red wine
• 1/2 cup water
• 2 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into tablespoons
• 3 tablespoons finely chopped tarragon (optional)
• Accompaniment: Dijon mustard

Instructions

1. Preheat oven to 475°F with racks in upper and lower thirds, with a 4-sided sheet pan in lower third.
2. Toss fries with 2 tablespoons oil in hot sheet pan, then bake according to package instructions until golden and crisp.
3. Meanwhile, pat steaks dry, then rub with peppercorns and 1/2 teaspoon salt.
4. Heat remaining tablespoon oil in an ovenproof 12-inch heavy skillet over medium-high heat until it shimmers. Sear steaks on all sides, about 3 minutes total. Transfer skillet to upper third of oven and roast 9 to 10 minutes for medium-rare. Transfer steaks to a plate and let rest 5 minutes.
5. Add wine to skillet and boil, scraping up brown bits, until reduced by half, about 1 minute. Add water and meat juices from plate and boil briskly until reduced by half, 3 to 4 minutes. Whisk in butter until incorporated. Season with salt and pepper.
6. Sprinkle fries with tarragon. Serve steaks with sauce and fries.