Ingredients

• 3 oz pork tenderloin (preferably from tail end), thinly sliced crosswise (1/3 cup)
• 1 teaspoon Chinese Shaoxing cooking wine or medium-dry Sherry
• 1/4 teaspoon salt
• 1 (14- to 16-oz) block of firm tofu
• 1 cup plus 3 tablespoons peanut oil
• 2 (4- to 5-inch) fresh mild red chiles (sometimes called finger chiles), thinly sliced diagonally, then seeded
• 1 tablespoon finely chopped garlic
• 2 1/2 to 3 tablespoons Chinese fermented black beans, rinsed well and drained
• 3/4 cup chicken stock or reduced-sodium chicken broth
• 1/4 teaspoon dark soy sauce
• 3/4 teaspoon potato starch
• 1 tablespoon water
• 3 scallions, greens thinly sliced diagonally (reserve remainder for another use)
• 1/2 teaspoon Asian sesame oil
• 1 to 2 teaspoons Asian chile oil
• Special equipment: a well-seasoned 14-inch flat-bottomed wok; a deep-fat thermometer
• Accompaniment: white rice

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Instructions

1. Stir together pork, wine, and salt in a small bowl.
2. Cut tofu lengthwise into 1/4-inch-thick slices, then cut each slice crosswise into thirds. Blot tofu pieces between layers of paper towels to absorb excess moisture. Repeat with 1 or 2 changes of dry paper towels.
3. Heat 1 cup peanut oil in wok over high heat until thermometer registers 375°F. Cook tofu in 5 or 6 batches, stirring to keep slices from sticking together and turning over as needed, until golden, 1 to 2 minutes per batch. Transfer tofu as fried with a slotted spoon to paper towels to drain. Return oil to 375°F between batches. Carefully transfer oil to a heatproof container to cool (before discarding), then wipe wok clean.
4. Reheat wok over high heat until smoking, then add remaining 3 tablespoons peanut oil, swirling to coat wok evenly. Add chiles and garlic and stir-fry until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add pork mixture and stir-fry until no longer pink, 1 to 2 minutes, then add black beans and stir-fry until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add stock, tofu, and soy sauce and simmer 3 minutes.
5. Stir together potato starch and water in a small bowl, then add to tofu mixture in wok and simmer, stirring until sauce is thickened, about 1 minute. Add scallion greens, stirring until just wilted, then remove from heat and stir in sesame oil. Stir in chile oil to taste.