Ingredients

• 6 dried chiles de arbol
• 1/3 cup fish sauce
• 1 tablespoon fresh lime juice
• 1 tablespoon toasted sesame seeds
• 2 teaspoons sugar
• 1/2 cup oyster sauce
• 1/2 cup Thai thin soy sauce
• 2 tablespoons sugar
• 2 tablespoons vegetable oil
• 2 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper
• 2 pounds chicken wings, tips removed, drumettes and flats separated
• A spice mill or a mortar and pestle; twelve 8" bamboo skewers soaked in water at least 1 hour.

Instructions

1. Grind chiles in spice mill to a fine powder. Mix chile powder, fish sauce, lime juice, sesame seeds, and sugar in a medium bowl to dissolve sugar. Adjust with more sugar or lime juice if needed.
2. Wings and assembly: Prepare grill for medium-high heat. Combine oyster and soy sauces, sugar, oil, and pepper in a large bowl. Add wings; toss to coat. Let sit 20–30 minutes (if allowed to marinate longer, they'll be too salty). Thread 2 flat pieces onto each skewer on a diagonal, spacing about 1/2" apart. Grill along with drumettes, turning occasionally, until lightly charred and cooked through, 6–8 minutes. Serve with dipping sauce.
3. Prepare grill for medium-high heat. Combine oyster and soy sauces, sugar, oil, and pepper in a large bowl. Add wings; toss to coat. Let sit 20–30 minutes (if allowed to marinate longer, they'll be too salty). Thread 2 flat pieces onto each skewer on a diagonal, spacing about 1/2" apart. Grill along with drumettes, turning occasionally, until lightly charred and cooked through, 6–8 minutes. Serve with dipping sauce.