Ingredients

• 1 cup vegetable oil
• 1/2 pound shallots, thinly sliced (2 cups)
• 8 medium Swiss chard leaves, stems trimmed flush with leaves
• 1 small garlic clove
• 1/2 teaspoon fine sea salt
• 1/2 cup chopped fresh cilantro
• 1 cup whole-milk yogurt
• a deep-fat thermometer

Instructions

1. Heat oil in a 1-quart saucepan over moderately high heat until hot but not smoking (365°F on deep-fat thermometer), then fry shallots in 3 batches, stirring occasionally, until golden brown, 2 to 3 minutes. Transfer as fried with a slotted spoon to paper towels to drain, spreading evenly, then cool.
2. Make rolls: Cook chard leaves in a large pot of boiling salted water until tender, about 2 minutes. Transfer with tongs to a bowl of ice and cold water to stop cooking. Drain well and pat dry with paper towels. Halve each leaf lengthwise, discarding rib. Place 1 tablespoon shallots at 1 end of a chard strip and firmly roll up, forming a cigar shape. Make 15 more rolls in same manner.
3. Cook chard leaves in a large pot of boiling salted water until tender, about 2 minutes. Transfer with tongs to a bowl of ice and cold water to stop cooking. Drain well and pat dry with paper towels.
4. Halve each leaf lengthwise, discarding rib. Place 1 tablespoon shallots at 1 end of a chard strip and firmly roll up, forming a cigar shape. Make 15 more rolls in same manner.
5. Make raita: Mash garlic to a paste with sea salt using a mortar and pestle (or mince and mash with a large heavy knife). Purée cilantro with garlic paste and 1/4 cup yogurt in a blender, scraping down sides occasionally. Transfer to a bowl and stir in remaining 3/4 cup yogurt. Serve chard rolls with raita.
6. Mash garlic to a paste with sea salt using a mortar and pestle (or mince and mash with a large heavy knife). Purée cilantro with garlic paste and 1/4 cup yogurt in a blender, scraping down sides occasionally. Transfer to a bowl and stir in remaining 3/4 cup yogurt. Serve chard rolls with raita.