Ingredients

• 4 fresh long red chilies, such as Anaheim or Hungarian Wax, chopped
• 2 fresh Thai bird chilies, chopped
• 3 inches fresh ginger, peeled and chopped
• 8 garlic cloves, crushed and peeled
• 1 bunch of flat-leaf parsley, leaves only
• 2 tablespoons sea salt
• 1/4 cup olive oil (the best you can afford)
• 1 bone-in goat shoulder (about 5 pounds)

Instructions

1. Use a mortar and pestle to pound the chilies, ginger, garlic, and parsley with the salt to a coarse paste, pounding each ingredient thoroughly before adding the next. Add the olive oil, pounding again to form a pretty smooth paste.
2. Rub the goat shoulder with the chili paste and refrigerate, covered, for 24 hours.
3. THAT DAY 1. Preheat a smoker (see Headnote above). 2. Place the goat shoulder in the smoker (reserving any leftover marinade) and let it ride for about 3 hours. Keep an eye on the temperature, stoke your fire, and drink a Scotch. Occasionally baste the goat with the leftover marinade. After 3 hours, periodically jiggle the leg. When it gives you the sense that if you pulled just a bit harder you could tear it from the joint, it's ready, but it'll probably take another 3 to 4 hours. Serve it straight away on a platter and tear into with your hands.
4. Preheat a smoker (see Headnote above).
5. Place the goat shoulder in the smoker (reserving any leftover marinade) and let it ride for about 3 hours. Keep an eye on the temperature, stoke your fire, and drink a Scotch. Occasionally baste the goat with the leftover marinade. After 3 hours, periodically jiggle the leg. When it gives you the sense that if you pulled just a bit harder you could tear it from the joint, it's ready, but it'll probably take another 3 to 4 hours. Serve it straight away on a platter and tear into with your hands.