Ingredients

• 1/4 cup pork lard or vegetable oil
• 1/3 cup finely chopped white onion plus 8 very thin slices
• 2 garlic cloves, minced
• 1 (15-ounce) can pinto beans, rinsed
• 1/2 cup reduced-sodium chicken broth or water
• 4 large soft white rolls, such as Portuguese (preferably oblong)
• 2 cups shredded roast chicken or pork
• 4 tablespoons crema or sour cream
• 12 to 16 slices pickled jalapeños with 2 teaspoons juice from can or jar
• 1/4 cup crumbled queso cotija (aged white cheese) or parmesan
• 1/3 cup cilantro leaves
• 2 radishes, very thinly sliced
• 1 (6- to 8-ounces) firm-ripe avocado, sliced
• 2 cups thinly sliced romaine

Instructions

1. Heat lard in a large heavy skillet over medium heat until it shimmers, then cook chopped onion and garlic, stirring, until golden, 3 to 5 minutes. Add beans, broth, and 1/4 teaspoon salt (or to taste) and simmer, mashing beans, until beans resemble a coarse purée, about 5 minutes.
2. Halve rolls horizontally and hollow out slightly, discarding excess bread. Generously spread refried beans on both sides of each roll, then make sandwiches with remaining ingredients and salt to taste.