Ingredients

• 2 cups all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting
• 3/4 teaspoon baking soda
• 1/2 teaspoon salt
• 1 tablespoon caraway seeds
• 1 cup well-shaken buttermilk
• 2 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted
• 3 ounces sharp white Cheddar cheese, coarsely grated (1 1/4 cups)
• 1/4 cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
• 4 large eggs
• 2 1/2 cups whole milk
• Special equipment: 8 (6-ounce) ramekins or a 2-quart shallow gratin or baking dish

Instructions

1. Preheat oven to 375°F with rack in middle.
2. Whisk together flour, baking soda, salt, and caraway in a large bowl. Add buttermilk and butter. Stir just until dough is evenly moistened but still lumpy.
3. Transfer dough to a well-floured surface and turn dough to coat with flour. Gently knead with floured hands about 8 times to form a soft but slightly less sticky dough.
4. Form into a domed 6-inch round and put on an ungreased baking sheet. Cut a 1/2-inch-deep "X" across top of each loaf with a sharp knife. Using a small sieve, dust 1 tablespoon of additional flour over loaf.
5. Bake in middle of oven until golden brown and bottom sounds hollow when tapped, 35 to 40 minutes. Transfer loaf to a rack and cool completely.
6. Make puddings: Preheat oven to 350°F with rack in middle. Butter ramekins or baking dish. Cut enough bread into 1-inch cubes to measure 3 3/4 cups (about half the loaf; reserve remaining bread for another use.) Divide bread among ramekins (or spread in larger baking dish). Whisk together eggs, milk, 1/2 teaspoon salt, and 1/4 teaspoon pepper. Stir in cheese and spoon over bread in ramekins or baking dish. Let stand 10 minutes. Put ramekins or baking dish in a larger baking pan and add enough hot water to come halfway up sides of ramekins or dish. Bake until just set and a knife inserted in center comes out clean, about 35 minutes. Transfer ramekins or dish from hot water bath to a rack and cool 20 minutes before serving.
7. Preheat oven to 350°F with rack in middle. Butter ramekins or baking dish.
8. Cut enough bread into 1-inch cubes to measure 3 3/4 cups (about half the loaf; reserve remaining bread for another use.) Divide bread among ramekins (or spread in larger baking dish).
9. Whisk together eggs, milk, 1/2 teaspoon salt, and 1/4 teaspoon pepper. Stir in cheese and spoon over bread in ramekins or baking dish. Let stand 10 minutes.
10. Put ramekins or baking dish in a larger baking pan and add enough hot water to come halfway up sides of ramekins or dish.
11. Bake until just set and a knife inserted in center comes out clean, about 35 minutes.
12. Transfer ramekins or dish from hot water bath to a rack and cool 20 minutes before serving.