Ingredients

• 4 ears corn, shucked
• 1 teaspoon kosher salt
• 3/4 teaspoon cornstarch
• Pinch sugar, optional
• 1/4 cup finely chopped onion
• 2 tablespoons unsalted butter
• 1/3 cup water
• 2 tablespoons minced fresh chives
• Freshly ground black pepper

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Instructions

1. Working over a shallow bowl, cut off corn kernels, then scrape each cob with a knife to extract juice. Discard cobs.
2. Puree 2 cups kernels, reserving remainder, and all of juice in a food processor 2 minutes, scraping down sides. Force through a fine sieve into a bowl and discard solids. Stir in salt, cornstarch, and sugar.
3. Cook onion in butter in a saucepan over moderately low heat, stirring frequently, until softened. Add reserved kernels and water and simmer briskly, covered, stirring occasionally, until corn is crisp-tender, 4 to 5 minutes.
4. Stir corn puree again, then stir into kernels. Bring to a boil, stirring, and simmer, stirring, until thickened, about 2 minutes. (If desired, thin with water.) Season with pepper and stir in chives.