Ingredients

• 1 medium leek (white and pale green parts only), cut into 1/2-inch pieces
• 1/2 cup finely diced carrot
• 1/4 cup finely diced celery
• 3 tablespoons unsalted butter
• 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
• 1 1/2 cups whole milk
• 3/4 teaspoon salt
• 1/4 teaspoon black pepper
• 1 1/4 pounds skinless cod or scrod fillet, cut into 3/4-inch chunks
• 1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
• 1 tablespoon baking powder
• 3/4 teaspoon salt
• 7 1/2 tablespoons cold unsalted butter, cut into 1/2-inch cubes, plus 1 tablespoon, melted
• 1/2 cup plus 1 tablespoon whole milk
• 2 1/2 tablespoons chopped fresh dill
• Special equipment: a 3 1/2-inch round cookie/biscuit cutter; 4 (4- to 5-inch-wide) 8- to 10-ounce ramekins*

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Instructions

1. Put oven rack in middle position and preheat oven to 450°F.
2. Make sauce for filling: Wash leek in a bowl of water, then lift out and drain well. Cook leek, carrot, and celery in butter in a 2- to 3-quart heavy saucepan over moderate heat, stirring frequently, until tender, about 7 minutes. Add flour and cook, stirring, 1 minute. Stir in milk, 1/4 teaspoon salt, and 1/8 teaspoon pepper. Bring sauce to a boil, stirring, then reduce heat and simmer, stirring occasionally, 4 minutes. (Sauce will be thick.) Remove pan from heat.
3. Wash leek in a bowl of water, then lift out and drain well. Cook leek, carrot, and celery in butter in a 2- to 3-quart heavy saucepan over moderate heat, stirring frequently, until tender, about 7 minutes. Add flour and cook, stirring, 1 minute. Stir in milk, 1/4 teaspoon salt, and 1/8 teaspoon pepper. Bring sauce to a boil, stirring, then reduce heat and simmer, stirring occasionally, 4 minutes. (Sauce will be thick.) Remove pan from heat.
4. Make crust: Whisk together flour, baking powder, and salt in a bowl. Blend in butter cubes with your fingertips or a pastry blender until mixture resembles coarse meal. Stir in milk and dill with a fork until mixture just comes together. Gather dough into a ball, then turn out onto a lightly floured surface and knead 2 or 3 times. Roll out with a floured rolling pin into an 8-inch square (1/2 inch thick), then cut out 4 biscuits using cutter.
5. Whisk together flour, baking powder, and salt in a bowl. Blend in butter cubes with your fingertips or a pastry blender until mixture resembles coarse meal. Stir in milk and dill with a fork until mixture just comes together.
6. Gather dough into a ball, then turn out onto a lightly floured surface and knead 2 or 3 times. Roll out with a floured rolling pin into an 8-inch square (1/2 inch thick), then cut out 4 biscuits using cutter.
7. Make filling and bake pies: Sprinkle cod with remaining 1/2 teaspoon salt and 1/8 teaspoon pepper. Bring sauce to a simmer and stir in fish, then divide among ramekins. Top each ramekin with a biscuit, then brush biscuits with melted butter. Arrange ramekins in a shallow baking pan and bake until sauce is bubbling and biscuits are golden, 12 to 15 minutes.
8. Sprinkle cod with remaining 1/2 teaspoon salt and 1/8 teaspoon pepper. Bring sauce to a simmer and stir in fish, then divide among ramekins. Top each ramekin with a biscuit, then brush biscuits with melted butter. Arrange ramekins in a shallow baking pan and bake until sauce is bubbling and biscuits are golden, 12 to 15 minutes.
9. *Available at Bridge Kitchenware (800-274-3435).