Ingredients

• 1 pound thick-cut bacon
• 1/4 teaspoon Chinese five-spice powder
• 3 tomatoes, sliced 1/2 inch thick
• 3 tablespoons hoisin sauce
• 3 tablespoons mayonnaise
• 2 to 3 teaspoons Sriracha (Asian chile sauce)
• 1 cup small watercress sprigs
• 2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro
• Splash of rice wine vinegar
• 1/8 teaspoon toasted sesame oil
• Kosher salt
• 10 Chinese steamed buns or hamburger buns
• 1 Persian cucumber, thinly sliced

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Instructions

1. Working in batches, cook the bacon in a large skillet over medium heat until crisp; drain on paper towels. Sprinkle the bacon with the five-spice powder, then break the slices in half.
2. Preheat the broiler. Place the tomato slices on a baking sheet and brush with half of the hoisin sauce. Broil until bubbling, about 3 minutes, then turn; brush with the remaining hoisin sauce and broil 3 more minutes.
3. Combine the mayonnaise and Sriracha in a small bowl. Toss the watercress and cilantro in a medium bowl with the vinegar, sesame oil and a pinch of salt.
4. Dampen 2 paper towels and squeeze out the excess water. Wrap the Chinese buns loosely in the paper towels, then place in a large microwave-safe bowl; cover with plastic wrap and microwave in 30-second intervals until hot and soft.
5. (Alternatively, steam in a steamer basket set over boiling water, 5 minutes.) If using hamburger buns, do not steam.
6. Spread the inside of the buns with some of the chile mayonnaise. Fill the buns with a few slices each of cucumber, bacon and tomato, and some of the watercress mixture.
7. Photograph by Jonathan Kantor